Glyphosate Alternatives

Let me acknowledge that glyphosate is only the "Active Ingredient" listed on many herbicides, and that it's actually the unlisted adjuvants that we need to be concerned about. Unfortunately the regulations only require safety testing of the active ingredients even though the adjuvants have been found to be 1000 times more toxic.  The only other dangerous ingredient in RoundUp that I know of is polyethoxylated tallowamine POE-15. 

In an effort to avoid using glyphosate I did some research on how the kill weeds around ornamental landscape plants, pathways and driveways.  I still and always will object to Glyphosate and 2-4-D being used on or near vegetable gardens.

Here are the methods I was able to discover:

Pulling weeds by hand, and sheet mulching.  This is great for a small area


Zinc Sulfate mixed 1-1/8 oz per gallon will treat 4 sq ft.  At $12 per 10 lbs this works out to about $0.35/sq ft.  Yikes!

BurnOut Weed & Grass Killer made of a special blend of citric acid and clove oil and other patented synergistic components. If I try this product I'll post the results, but from what I've read this too only stunts the plant and leaves the roots to grow again.  If you have used this I'd like to hear about your results.

Weed Dragon is a large propane torch.  Reviews state that they are effective at temporarily removing the weeds, but repeated treatment will be required to eventually kill more persistent weeds.   Attacking the weeds again several days later seems to be advised.
The Weed Dragon delivers a 400,000 BTU while the mini delivers 25,000 BTU.  The later uses a small disposable tank, and is easily held by one hand where as the former uses a 20 gallon tank and is often accessorized with a cart.  There is also a 2.5 gallon model that is worn like a back pack.
Apparently 1 gallon of propane will last about 1 hour depending on how high the flame is turned up.  Not all models have a flame adjustment. 


Vinegar, salt, & soap mixed at 1/2 gal vinegar, 1/2 cup salt, 1/2tsp liquid dish soap will also kill weeds.  This mixture costs about $6.00/gal.  I don't know what the application rate is supposed to be, but I used it as I would use Roundup. After several applications there was only a few blotches otherwise the plants were healthy.

I mentioned this did not work and someone else told me I had the recipe wrong and absolutely guaranteed that her formula as shown above would work.  Below are the results after spraying 5 times over 8 days.  The large broad leafed plant shows only a small amount of damage.  The grass lost color but regained its strength soon after the experiment was over.

I did find that I could pour a couple ounces directly on the root area for excellent results, but causing the soil to become incapable of supporting plant life is not what I'm after.  Even Roundup leaves the soil in better shape than this.

I hate the idea of supporting Monsanto or any biotech bent on destroying the earth with GMO and toxic chemicals.  But they do seem to have the only spray on products that will kill weeds.  How poisonous these herbicides are is a matter of debate.  During the past 30 years I've never been particularly careful about handling Roundup or 2-4-D, and I don't seem to have been affected, but I've had friends who were in Vietnam that were severely harmed by defoliants.

Of course I'm not advocating that we ingest it.  Only a crazy person would do that right?  Oh yeah our GM foods have been modified to resist Roundup and therefore hugh amounts of the stuff is sprayed on our food.  This I object to, but spraying my driveway seems okay to me.

It seems too cruel but I may have to do my own experiments with Roundup.  The group of good and natural folks I would like to be able to include myself in say that Roundup destroys the life in the soil.  Somehow I doubt this.  Over time, the glyphosate can be tied up by cations in the water or it can be biodegraded by bacteria. [1] By spraying the leaves of a plant, those chemicals are taken down into the roots and might poison some of the microbiology,  but with all the bull that I've been feed about vinegar I simply don't trust the disinformation any longer.

Here's the thing.  Don't make up the facts just to make you case.  Some organic herbicides such as herbicidal soaps and oils have been found to be more harmful to aquatic life than Roundup.  The EIQ (Environmental Impact Quotient ) of Roundup is only 15.3 (on a scale of 1 to 100).  [2]. 

Making up your own facts does more harm then good.   It doesn't work for Monsanto and it does not benefit the fight for a clean world.  This poor lab rat was fed Roundup.  Let's get real, nobody puts Roundup on their food like table salt except maybe the farmers using GM seeds.  So buy organic.

But don't tell me vinegar kills weeds and that it's just as good as Roundup because it's not. 

1. http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/roundup-breakdown-in-tap-water/
2. http://www.sustainable-gardening.com/archives/403

Edible Landscaping

.
Edible Landscaping 
Integrate herbs into your landscape. Rosemary, sage, thyme, winter savory, basil, and oregano all blend in well with flowering perennials.
Blueberries, currants, and elderberries are attractive shrubs in their own right, putting out pretty flowers in spring and, especially in the case of blueberries, a colorful fall show. Plus, they produce loads of delicious fruit.
Raspberries and blackberries reliably produce loads of fruit for years with minimal care. All they need is a sunny spot with well-drained soil, some basic pruning in winter, and a coat of compost over their beds in spring.
Low-growing, spreading strawberries, especially alpine varieties, make an attractive ground cover in sunny spots
Grapes, beans, melons and squash can be grown on a vertical frame to make an attractive fence or arbor.
Quinoa (pronounced KEEN waw) grows about 30" tall and produces seeds which can be dried, washed, and used similar to rice.  The leaves are also good in salads.  This is a relatively unknown plant with balanced proteins and health benefits. 

Edible Flowers
Nasturtium - Available in a scope of colors. Both flowers and leaves add a peppery flavor to mixed greens.
Calendula - A prolific grower, calendula blossoms grow in abundance. Sprinkle individual petals lightly on a salad.
Herb Flowers - Basil, chives, dill, fennel, and arugula flowers all add a spark of aromatic flavor and a burst of color to salads
Viola -Whether wild or cultivated, delicately flavored violas jazz up a bowl of mesclun greens like nothing else.
Borage -Intense blue star shaped flowers add a burst of color that contrasts nicely with greens. The flower's delicate flavor tastes similar to cucumber. Separate the flower from the stem for a softer texture

Take a Weed to Lunch by Roger R. Locandro (Weeds Today/Early Spring 1982)

Dr. Roger R. Locandro, is Professor of Agriculture and Natural Resources and Dean of Students at Cook College, Rutgers University. He is a weed ecologist and teaches a unique course in interesting and edible plants. The course is followed by a sequel "Interesting and Edible Meats."  His experiences are an accumulation of a long, traditional, ethnic heritage, fine tuned by his weed science degrees and his continued interest in teaching.

Exquisite cuisine can be discovered in the wild world of weeds. Some of the finest tasting, most succulent vegetables remain virtually untouched in fields and roadside areas. Americans have generally abandoned the European/Oriental tradition of the utilization of edible and medicinal wild plants. Standard of living appears to play an important role relative to direct dependence or even interest in wild things. As the standard of living increases, people rely more and more on specialized groups of people - farmers - to produce food.

Half of our family originated in a little town in the hills of Sicily and half from the Netherlands. Sicilians are grand masters of plant and fungi taxonomy and "culinary" economic botany. They know what's good, interesting and edible! Sicily is a mountainous, rocky island in the semitropics off southern Italy. Steep-walled valleys, covered with a thin mantle of soil, surrounded by a marine environment, are the basis of the Sicilian agrarian/fishing economy. The soil and geology is such that much of the farming is only subsistence level. Families make every inch and every plant count. While the Netherlands is a considerable contrast, the older European wild plant traditions are still evident.

Teaching weeds with an "interesting and edible flavor" unlocks excitement, interest, and motivation in all students, young and old. The opportunity to teach weed taxonomy, ecology, biochemistry, etc., through the medium of interesting and edible plants, with an ethnic twist, has proved to be very successful. From an infinite population of plant species, I have selected five plants and will claim that they are unbeatable for table fare. Most of the species are easily located and harvested.

1. Dandelion-Taraxacum officinale

2. Pokeweed-Phytolacca americana

3. Greenbrier-Similax rotundifolia

4. Lambsquarters-Chenopodium album

5. Burdock-Arctium minus

Dandelion

In New Jersey we start picking tender, succulent dandelions on southern slopes in early March. Dandelions are ubiquitous and can be found almost anywhere in the world. The rest of the world relishes this wild treat. In Italian we would say "chicoria," somewhat descriptive of the chicory-like leaves of dandelions. An interesting note is the constant increase in the production of domestic dandelions in vegetable growing areas of the United States.

What do you do with a dandelion? Eat it fresh in salad, use it as a vegetable, a main course, or drink it! The youngest plants - those without flowers - are prime. They make the best salad with a dressing of your choice. Dutch style provides a hot dressing of chopped bacon bits, bacon drippings, sugar and vinegar to taste. The hot mix is simply poured over freshly cleaned dandelions and blended together.

As we move from the fresh product, an important lesson is worth learning. Steam, do not boil, vegetables. Boiling effectively removes large quantities of water soluble vitamins and minerals. Steam helps to preserve the nutritional qualities, along with the fine, delicate flavors and textures. Steam the dandelion greens until tender and serve as you would domestic greens -spinach, Swiss chard, etc. The difference here is that the dandelions are fresh, free, and they don't come in plastic bags!

Now for the Sicilian treatment. Take the drained, steamed dandelions or any other green that you wish to use, and cut them into half -inch pieces. Mix them with just enough beaten egg to hold the greens together. Add your favorite Italian grated cheese to taste and a touch of finely chopped garlic. Form hamburger-like patties with a large spoon or with your hands. Fry the patties in olive oil. Drain. Here is another good tip: always drain fried food on a cake rack for a nice dry all-over texture. My only problem is not being able to cook enough dandelion cakes for my family and students. This style, or cuisine, is reflective of Sicily. Limited quantities of wild or garden vegetables, combined with small quantities of eggs and cheese, are artfully stretched to provide a balanced meal for a family.

If you are planning to eat dandelion greens, fresh or raw, harvest only up to the flowering stage. Plant chemistry changes considerably when the flowers are in bloom. But don't stop now. Wait for full bloom, and begin the dandelion wine process. The wine is made from the golden blossoms. The following recipe is from the Dutch side of the family. They settled in New Jersey over two hundred years ago.

DANDELION WINE

10 quarts blossoms, no stems

15 quarts water

Boil water, add blossoms and remove from heat. Allow to stand overnight. Next day simmer for one hour. then strain and retain only the liquid.

Add ten pounds of sugar, eight sliced oranges, eight sliced lemons, two pounds of raisins. Place in large crock or plastic container. Ferment for nine days. Stir twice a day. Place in bottles or jars until fermentation is complete. If the first fermentation does not begin within one or two days, add a cake of bakers' yeast or dry yeast.

Do not seal the jars at this point. After the second fermentation has stopped in the jar or bottle (the time interval depends on the temperature of fermentation), remove sediments by siphoning off the liquid into clean bottles. Again, allow the bottle cap to remain loose until no further fermentation takes place. Seal the bottles, store away, and prepare for some old "medication"!

Burdock

Burdock starts to grow in early May in New Jersey. The plant is characterized by large, rhubarb-like leaves and edible stems and roots. This is another plant species enjoyed by the rest of the world. in Africa it is known as "gobo." To Italians it is "cardone." The best part is the young, succulent stem. Don't eat the leaves. Try the roots. . . they're okay as a steamed vegetable but not as good as the stems. Cut the stems into half-inch pieces and steam until tender. Proceed to use the Sicilian formula with the eggs, cheese, garlic and olive oil. You may also enjoy burdock in stews, soups, or served as a cooked vegetable.

 

Warning Burdock Looks A Lot Like Potatoe

One is potato and the other burdock.  One is poison the other is delicious.  Potato vines do not taste bad, so you can't really rely on taste to protect you.
If you ingest potato stems or leaves symptoms begin within about 60 minutes with a stomach ache and scratchy throat.  Expect severe vomiting,  diarrhea and sweating with hot flashes as your body tries to eliminate the poison.  Loss of fluids will become problematic as any liquids ingested will immediately be rejected. The lack of fluids causes lightheadedness so severer that managing your body's revolve with dignity becomes an act of will power.  If you live through the first day the next few will leave you felling tired, with body aches and a slight stomach ache. By the third day you may be able to stand for longer than 30 minutes, but take it easy.

Pokeweed

I predict that pokeweed will be completely removed from the wild scene when discovered as a good vegetable. Prepared and served as asparagus, and alongside of asparagus, people will select pokeweed almost every time. The highly succulent, tender, sweet shoots are harvested in the early spring. Pick the shoots up to eighteen inches in length. Strip off all the leaves beginning at the base. Stripping downward removes some of the outside cuticle in the process. Retain the leaves in the whorl at the tip. Cook them along with the stems. if you say pokeweed is poisonous, you're right. The plant contains an alkaloid - phytolacin. Fortunately, the alkaloid is highly soluble and can be easily extracted from the plant tissue. The alkaloid is generally concentrated in the roots, fruits, and leaves and, to a lesser extent, in the stems and young shoots. Cut the prepared shoots into two-inch segments and - break a rule - boil for thirty seconds. Pour off the water and proceed to steam until tender. Serve as you would asparagus, as a vegetable, in soups, or try the Sicilian treatment.

Lambsquarters

Lambsquarters is probably the closest relative to spinach only it's better! Taste tests continue to indicate a high preference for lambsquarters over spinach. Steam and serve. In New England, lambsquarters is canned for winter use. Pick out only the young shoots or allow a couple of large plants to grow and continue to harvest the new side shoots. The more you pick, the more lateral budding is induced.

Greenbrier

The best is saved for last - greenbrier, Rapidly growing vine tips are harvested in the spring and summer. Snap them off the ends of the vine with your fingers. They will crack where the tender shoot extends out from last year's woody tissue. Serve as a hot vegetable, add fresh to a lettuce salad, or use the "treatment." This is another Italian delicacy, also known as "rauni." it's hard to believe that such a fine, delicate treat as similax comes from a thorny, green bramble tough enough to be used as a cattle fence.

Not all weeds taste good or are pleasant textured. And be very cautious to avoid plants or plant parts that are poisonous. We spend little time foraging among the sticks and stones and concentrate on the many good and edible plants.

An extended list of eating delicacies include the highly underutilized wild onion, Allium vineale; chickweed, Stellaria media; yellow rocket, Barbarea vulgaris; watercress, Nasturtium officinale; day lily, Hemerocallis fulva, and many others.

Your introduction to edible plants may serve as an entryway to an exciting, dynamic career in plant sciences. From the fields and byways, the classroom and laboratory ... bon apetit!

Purslane

Comment by Scott Bloom 

Purslane contains more omega-3 fatty acids (alpha-linolenic acid in particular^[4]) than any other leafy vegetable plant. Research published by Artemis P. Simopoulos states that Purslane has 0.01 mg/g of eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA). This is an extraordinary amount of EPA for a land-based vegetable source. EPA is an Omega-3 fatty acid found mostly in fish, some algae, and flax seeds.^[5] It also contains vitamins (mainly vitamin A, vitamin C, and some vitamin B and carotenoids), as well as dietary minerals, such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, and iron. Also present are two types of betalain alkaloid pigments, the reddish betacyanins (visible in the coloration of the stems) and the yellow betaxanthins (noticeable in the flowers and in the slight yellowish cast of the leaves). Both of these pigment types are potent antioxidants and have been found to have antimutagenic properties in laboratory studies.^[6]
100 Grams of fresh purslane leaves (about 1 cup) contain 300 to 400 mg of alpha-linolenic acid.^[7] One cup of cooked leaves contains 90 mg of calcium, 561 mg of potassium, and more than 2,000 IUs of vitamin A. A half-cup of purslane leaves contains as much as 910 mg of oxalate, a compound implicated in the formation of kidney stones, however, note that many common vegetables, such as spinach, also can contain high concentrations of oxalates.
When stressed by low availability of water, purslane, which has evolved in hot and dry environments, switches to photosynthesis using Crassulacean acid metabolism (the CAM pathway): At night its leaves trap carbon dioxide, which is converted into malic acid (the souring principle of apples), and, in the day, the malic acid is converted into glucose. When harvested in the early morning, the leaves have ten times the malic acid content as when harvested in the late afternoon, and thus have a significantly more tangy taste.

Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), raw, fresh,
Nutritive value per 100 g.
(Source: USDA National Nutrient data base)

Principle	Nutrient Value	Percentage of RDA
Energy	16 Kcal	1.5%
Carbohydrates	3.4 g	3%
Protein	1.30 g	2%
Total Fat	0.1 g	0.5%
Cholesterol	0 mg	0%
Vitamins
Folates	12 µg	3%
Niacin	0.480 mg	3%
Pantothenic acid	0.036 mg	1%
Pyridoxine	0.073 mg	5.5%
Riboflavin	0.112 mg	8.5%
Thiamin	0.047 mg	4%
Vitamin A	1320 IU	44%
Vitamin C	21 mg	35%
Electrolytes
Sodium	45 mg	3%
Potassium	494 mg	10.5%
Minerals
Calcium	65 mg	6.5%
Copper	0.113 mg	12.5%
Iron	1.99 mg	25%
Magnesium	68 mg	17%
Manganese	0.303 mg	13%
Phosphorus	44 mg	6%
Selenium	0.9 µg	2%
Zinc	0.17 mg	1.5%

Galium Aparine

Miners Lettuce

Mike Oehler on Cattails

 

 

Harvesting Wild Thistle

  This is reprint from
Michigan Bio-Char

What Weeds Tell Us About The Soil

Posted on March 17, 2012 by Mark

Those nasty weeds, always complicating our lives and making more work for us than what we desire. Weeds are bad…..right? Well, not all of them.  Simply put, the definition of a weed is “a plant out of place.”  It’s good to think of them that way because some of those plants are edible and very healthy for you!  So, it’s really not a bad idea to learn about weeds and their effects on your diet as well as their effect on your garden.  Let’s take a look at some common weeds that you probably have growing in your garden.

DANDELIONS. Believe it or not, these critters are beneficial weeds! They are edible, and can be found usually in salads. They are beneficial because they add good minerals to the soil. They attract pollinating insects, and release ethylene gas, which helps fruits to ripen. Dandelions also have been used as medicines for such ailments as infections, liver problems, and cancers.

MORNING GLORY. Does this plant have any uses? It is on the Federal Noxious Weed list, and technically it is illegal to grow, import, sell, or even have in your possession. It is edible, being known in southern states as water spinach. The Morning Glory grows fast and tolerates poor, dry soils. Some species vine, and are used for creating shades on building walls, helping to reduce heating and cooling costs. The roots do have minerals which can be returned to the soil when composted.

CHICKWEED. If you have chickweed growing in your garden, it is a good indication of some very good soil. This plant has a tendency to accumulate some great minerals such as potassium and manganese, which return to the soil upon decomposition. They are edible, commonly being used in salads.

CLOVER. This plant indicates low fertility in your soil, especially low nitrogen levels in the soil it grows in. It is used a lot as a cover crop. Farmers will use clover to help control soil and water quality, weeds, pests, and diseases.

DOCK. This weed indicates a poorly drained soil that is becoming acidic. Some species are nuisance weeds, but others are edible. There are not that many known uses for this particular plant.

HORSETAIL. This weed is widely known as a nuisance weed. It is difficult to get rid of, even after pulling it out as it grows deeply into the ground. It grows in poor, acidic soil. However the Horsetail does accumulate some good minerals which go back into the ground when it decomposes. Increasing the PH level in your soil will do a lot to get rid of this pest.

VETCH  This plant also indicates a poor soil that is low in nitrogen. Like some of the other weeds, it does accumulate some good minerals which go back into the soil. It is a plant that is occasionally used as a cover crop also. There are no other good uses for this particular weed.

QUACK GRASS. Not much to say about this particular plant. It is hard to get rid of because of the creeping rhizomes (underground root system) which allow it to grow quickly. Quack Grass is usually considered an invasive weed. A sick dog will dig it up and eat the roots to cure its ailments. It has been used in herbal medicine since the time of the Greeks.

THISTLE. This particular weed usually is found in compacted soil. Butterflies like these plants. The Thistle is the national emblem of Scotland. It is also the emblem of Encyclopedia Britannica, which originated in Scotland. Other than that, no medicinal uses and you surely do not want to eat it!

SORREL. Yet another type of weed that exists in soil that is acidic and low in lime. The leaves of this product can be found in soups, salads, and sauces. In little quantities, it is harmless for human consumption. However, if a person ingests too much of this weed, it can be fatal. Oxalic acid, which is a poison, is found in Sorrel; thus, the reason why a large quantity can be deadly to the person eating it.

PLANTAIN. Here is another one of nature’s products that is found in acidic, compacted, and low fertility soil. This plant has been used since prehistoric times as an herbal remedy. Other than that, not an item you want to find in your soil.

Make sure you are careful if you are thinking about eating the plants that are listed as edible. There are many species of each plant, and you want to make sure you are eating the right one. Talk to a master gardener or well experienced produce person to get the right answers.  You know the saying “if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em?”  In this case it’s more like “if you can’t weed ‘em, eat ‘em.”  Just section off a part of your garden and grow some of these pesty weeds.  Nurture them along with some water during the hot months and you’re all set.  Happy gardening!

This entry was posted in Home Gardening, Soils by Jesse and tagged chickweed, clover, dandelion, diet, dock, garden, horsetail, morning glory, plantain, quackgrass, sorrel, thistle, vetch, weeds. Bookmark the permalink.



From True Food: Eight Simple Steps to a Healthier You (National Geographic, 2009) by Annie B. Bond, Melissa Breyer and Wendy Gordon.

1. Allium
All blossoms from the allium family (leeks, chives, garlic, garlic chives) are edible and flavorful! Flavors run the gamut from delicate leek to robust garlic. Every part of these plants is edible.
2. Angelica
Depending on the variety, flowers range from pale lavender-blue to deep rose and have a licorice-like flavor.

3. Anise hyssop
Both flowers and leaves have a subtle anise or licorice flavor.

4. Arugula
Blossoms are small with dark centers and with a peppery flavor much like the leaves. They range in color from white to yellow with dark purple streaks.

5. Bachelor’s button
Grassy in flavor, the petals are edible. Avoid the bitter calyx.

6. Basil
Blossoms come in a variety of colors, from white to pink to lavender; flavor is similar to the leaves, but milder.

7. Bee balm
The red flowers have a minty flavor.

8. Borage
Blossoms are a lovely blue hue and taste like cucumber!

9. Calendula / marigold
A great flower for eating, calendula blossoms are peppery, tangy, and spicy — and their vibrant golden color adds dash to any dish.

10. Carnations / dianthus
Petals are sweet, once trimmed away from the base. The blossoms taste like their sweet, perfumed aroma.
11. Chamomile
Small and daisylike, the flowers have a sweet flavor and are often used in tea. Ragweed sufferers may be allergic to chamomile.

12. Chervil
Delicate blossoms and flavor, which is anise-tinged.

13. Chicory
Mildly bitter earthiness of chicory is evident in the petals and buds, which can be pickled.

14. Chrysanthemum
A little bitter, mums come in a rainbow of colors and a range of flavors range from peppery to pungent. Use only the petals.

15. Cilantro
Like the leaves, people either love the blossoms or hate them. The flowers share the grassy flavor of the herb. Use them fresh as they lose their charm when heated.

16. Citrus (orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit, kumquat)
Citrus blossoms are sweet and highly scented. Use frugally or they will over-perfume a dish.

17. Clover
Flowers are sweet with a hint of licorice.

18. Dandelion
Read more about dandelions here: Backyard Forage for Dandelions.

19. Dill
Yellow dill flowers taste much like the herb’s leaves.

20. English daisy
These aren’t the best-tasting petals — they are somewhat bitter — but they look great!

21. Fennel
Yellow fennel flowers are eye candy with a subtle licorice flavor, much like the herb itself.

22. Fuchsia
Tangy fuchsia flowers make a beautiful garnish.

23. Gladiolus
Who knew? Although gladioli are bland, they can be stuffed, or their petals removed for an interesting salad garnish.

24. Hibiscus
Famously used in hibiscus tea, the vibrant cranberry flavor is tart and can be used sparingly.

25. Hollyhock
Bland and vegetal in flavor, hollyhock blossoms make a showy, edible garnish.

26. Impatiens
Flowers don’t have much flavor — best as a pretty garnish or for candying.

27. Jasmine
These super-fragrant blooms are used in tea; you can also use them in sweet dishes, but sparingly.

28. Johnny Jump-Up
Adorable and delicious, the flowers have a subtle mint flavor great for salads, pastas, fruit dishes and drinks.

29. Lavender
Sweet, spicy, and perfumed, the flowers are a great addition to both savory and sweet dishes.

30. Lemon berbena
The diminutive off-white blossoms are redolent of lemon — and great for teas and desserts.

31. Lilac
The blooms are pungent, but the floral citrusy aroma translates to its flavor as well.

32. Mint
The flowers are — surprise! — minty. Their intensity varies among varieties.

33. Nasturtium
One of the most popular edible flowers, nasturtium blossoms are brilliantly colored with a sweet, floral flavor bursting with a spicy pepper finish. When the flowers go to seed, the seed pod is a marvel of sweet and spicy. You can stuff flowers, add leaves to salads, pickle buds like capers, and garnish to your heart’s content.

34. Oregano
The flowers are a pretty, subtle version of the leaf.

35. Pansy
The petals are somewhat nondescript, but if you eat the whole flower you get more taste.

36. Radish
Varying in color, radish flowers have a distinctive, peppery bite.

37. Rose
Remove the white, bitter base and the remaining petals have a strongly perfumed flavor perfect for floating in drinks or scattering across desserts, and for a variety of jams. All roses are edible, with flavor more pronounced in darker varieties.

38. Rosemary
Flowers taste like a milder version of the herb; nice used as a garnish on dishes that incorporate rosemary.

39. Sage
Blossoms have a subtle flavor similar to the leaves.

40. Squash and pumpkin
Blossoms from both are wonderful vehicles for stuffing, each having a slight squash flavor. Remove stamens before using.

41. Sunflower
Petals can be eaten, and the bud can be steamed like an artichoke.

42. Violets
Another famous edible flower, violets are floral, sweet and beautiful as garnishes. Use the flowers in salads and to garnish desserts and drinks.

Why I Buy Organic & Non-GMO & Support Local Organic Farmers

Organic farmers are stewards of the land rather than soil rapers
 
Organic food is free of chemicals

GMO farmers use more aggressive control measures, such as increased use of chemical sprays. 

Organic food is free of unsustainable petroleum fertilizers
 
Organic food promotes better health.
 
Organic food tastes richer, sweeter and is more satisfying
 
Organic food uses natural defenses, and has no unhealthy pesticides

Bio-engineered crops harm species that are not their target, such as monarch butterflies. 

Organic growers use sustainable methods of growing food that promote soil health rather than destroying the soil

GMO transfer pesticide-resistant genes to related weeds may produce "super weeds"  immune to commonly used control methods

Nature adapts and may begin to produce 'super bugs' putting heirloom plants at a disadvantage.

Locally grown food costs less to ship
 
Locally grown organic food uses less fuel to deliver to consumer
 
Locally grown organic food is fresher
 
Locally grown organic fruit tastes better
 
Locally grown organic fruit has a higher nutrient value than fruit picked early.
 
Seasonal vegetables taste better and deliver diversity through out the year
 
Organic growers are more productive
 
Organic growers use less fuel hungry machinery
 
Local organic farmers employ local people
 
Organic growers use  less water
 
Organic growers use Non GMO seed
 
Organic growers do not use toxic Roundup.  Glysophate is the listed active ingredient, but the other ingredients are even more toxic
 
Organic growers do not have to lie about the toxic chemicals in and on their food
 
GMO crops are infecting heirloom crops
 
Organic growers provide better variety and seed diversity
 
Less wasted produce when you buy from local organic farmers.

Ordinary, familiar foods can become allergenic through the addition of foreign genes.
 

Locally grown food lasts longer


Maybe you can help be think of more reasons to support local and organic farmers.

For more detailed information about GMO [CLICK HERE]

A Handbook For Aquaponics

Gardening with aquaponics is a passion for me.  For almost 2 years I've visited my fish first thing in the morning, and it's the last thing I do before bed.  I enjoy the science and systems that sustain this marvelous symbiotic garden with biological interactions that continue to flourish and amaze me.

I'll warn you that a lot of what you will find on the internet is hype and rubbish.  For example growing lettuce at four times the normal yield is just not going to happen. Aquaponics is not going to feed the world, and it's not as easy as many make it look, and unless you are a top notch salesman you will not grow rich selling produce, and fish or aquaponic systems. Beware of people selling anything related to aquaponics. There are no secrets in aquaponics.

Why do you want to grow with aquaponics?  Chances are you either want to
1. save money on food,
2. avoid kneeling,
3. reduce your water consumption,
4. be sure you are eating healthy organic food,
5. help reduce the depletion of fossil fuel and lower the carbon foot print of your existence.

Maybe it's all of these, but "traditional aquaponics" is not a sustainable method. To be fair, I can't think of any method of farming that provides animal protein in a sustainable fashion, especially if we are not able to allow the animal to free roam and forage for their own food. After you add up all the energy involved with aquaponics it still uses more energy to pump water than the caloric energy it grows. But aquaponics is a move in the right direction, and it does save transportation energy. In ideal locations aquaponics could produce 30,000 lbs of fish per acre per year compared to less than 100 lbs for cattle, but don't forget the fossil fuel required to make that happen. For more on that [CLICK HERE].

This is why I strive to design low energy systems, and grow with the seasons. These integrated systems qualify as Permaculture, and I will show you how to accomplish every one of the goal on that list! My first rule is don't fight Mother Nature. She can be generous if you work with her.

Traditional aquaponics may never grow enough food to get back what you invest, but you will save a lot of water, know first hand how safe your food is, and if you design it with raised beds or vertical towers you will not have to get down on your knees.

Growing a garden is a challenge, at least it was to me. Aquaponics is not any easier, and often times more difficult than soil based gardening. I don't consider myself an expert, just experienced. I hope I can help you get you off to a good start because it can provide a great deal of enjoyment.

Here is a list of topics I will cover

Sustainability
Water Quality
Carbonates, pH, water chemistry and nutrients
Iron
Media beds
Media
Radial Filters
Cycling & Nitrification
The System Build
    Concrete
    Wood Tanks
    International Bulk Containers (IBC)
    Drums
    Bell Siphons
    Timed Fill and Drain
    Old School Fill & Drain
    Air Pumps
    Airlift Pumps
    Electric Pumps
CHOP 1 vs CHOP 2
Level Systems
Flow Rate


Fish
    Compassionate Killing of Fish
     Fish Food
    Breeding Fish
Level Systems
Media Beds
    Wicking beds
    Earthan Beds
Wicking Pots
Deep Water Culture (DWC)
NFT (Nutrient Film Technech)
Vertical Towers 
Bioponics
Plants
Green Houses
    Rocket Mass Stoves
    Evaporative Coolers
    Floors
    Pipe sizes
    Insulation
    Lights
    Heating
Starting from Seeds
Keep a Log
Sea Salt
Pest Control
Site & Experts to follow

I want to talk about the many questions I had as a newbie aquapon, and discuss some brilliant ways to improve traditional aquaponics.

Questions will always come up when designing your first system. I will attempt to remember what mine were, and anticipate what yours are too. I also want to mention an alternative to aquaponics with fish. Bioponics is aquaponics without fish. It uses other sources of nitrogen there by avoiding many problems and expenses involved with raising fish. If you do not eat a lot of fish I encourage you to go this route.

Water Quality
There are often concerns about detritus in the media and water. Let me first say, worms in all of your media beds are very beneficial whether it be Earthan, Wicking, or LECA (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate). They consume dead roots, uneaten food, and with the help of bacteria in their guts, make minerals available to the plants through a process called chelation. They help keep the media clear of excess gunk, and feed the plants in the process. Worms (Eisenia Foetida – the Red Wiggler, Californian red worm) to be exact should be in your system. You can even feed them to your fish.

Carbonates are bad for beginning systems because they remove a level of control for beginning systems (i.e. before your nitrification efficiency is up). Your related acidification is really weak and carbonates can overwhelm the process, leading to chronically high pH. (i.e. 8+) which limits nutrient availability and makes it difficult to stabilize your system where it should be (below 7 for commercial systems). - Nate Storey (Bright Agrotech)

pH and water chemistry and nutrients:
If the pH gets too high you will need to lower with acid.  Buffing from the carbonates in your grow media, and local water supply may make the pH difficult to adjust.

http://www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/acidbaseeqia/phcurves.html

At the point at where the buffer is overcome any further amount of acid will cause a drastic pH change

GO SLOW.  As you add Hydrochloric acid the pH will drop, and then bounce back.  Don't get frustrated and dump extra in.  You will reach a point where it kicks in and then a little goes a long way. It is possible to kill your nitrifying bacteria if you go too low.
I've never had a problem with low pH, but the same applies.  Add a threshold level of HCl (Hydrochloric Acid) or KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) and then test pH a day later and adjust with a smaller adjustment dose.  This is actually safer than calculating because it allows other variables to impact pH over the course of 24 hrs

Iron is almost always lacking in aquaponic systems.  The form of iron is very important. The three common chelated forms (iron-EDDHA, DTPA and EDTA) differ in their ability to keep iron soluble and available to plants as the pH increases. Between a pH of 4.0 to 5.5, any form of iron will work (including iron sulfate) at supplying iron to the plant. However, as the pH increases above 7.0, only the iron from Fe-EDDHA will have high solubility.
Iron-EDDHA 4 >< 9 pH
Iron-DTPA 4 >< 6.5 pH
Iron-EDTA 4 >< 5.5 pH
Research has shown that the ranking of iron forms from most effective to least effective at supplying iron at high media pH is Fe-EDDHA Iron-DTPA > Iron-EDTA > Iron sulfate. If iron is applied in a form that is not soluble because of high media pH, then most of the nutrient will not be available to plants until media pH is lowered.
In general the best products will say EDDHA (Sequestrene 138) because they work over the widest range of pH. Sequestrene 330 is ETPA and it is more affordable. Use Sequestrene 138 only if your media is alkaline and calcareous If your soil/media is very acidic I would still use ETPA Sequestrene 330 rather than EDTA. ETPA (Sequestrene 330) is the best all around iron to buy if your are maintaining your system between 6.2 and 6.5. Iron Sulfate can be used as a foliar application in aquaponics, and may not be terribly detrimental to your fish, but I would not use it when there are better choices.
Sequestrene is what I use and it's widely available on the internet, but others are good too. Sequestrene 138 may has been reported to turn the water red but I've only used 330 so I don't know for sure if that is true or how much of a problem it is.

Media beds clean, and filter the water, but that is not their primary purpose.  In fact even a bio-ponic system (aquaponic system without fish)  will accumulate muck in the media.  To a certain extent that is what you want for good nitrification and as your system matures it will continue to improve.  What you don't want is food and poo clogging the media, and creating anaerobic spots.  Therefore we remove the detritus from the water with a radial filter.  The main purpose of media is to provide nitrification, and as luck would have it, media beds provide a place to grow plants.  People from the aquaculture world often miss this last point and try to incorporate a very efficient Fluidized Biological Filters as well. 

The primary focus of aquaponics is plant growth and fluidized filters also known as moving bed filters create no space for plants, but there are situations where they may be useful.  For example you may wish to have more fish and have no room for more garden beds.

Media provides filtration, a place for plants and most importantly nitrification.


BSA (Biological Surface Area) depends upon the SSA (Specific Surface Area) of the media.  The higher the BSA the better because the bacteria which provides nitrification likes to grow on surfaces.  Most IBC systems average about 25 ft² surface area per pound of fish.  100 or more sq ft per pound would be really great for the fish, but somewhere in this range is good.

The surface area of the media where the bacteria grow increases with porous media.  Kaldness is used in aquariums because it has been designed to provide a very high SSA of about  244 ft²/ft³, while providing good flow.  Flow is the crux, because even though media such as sand has a high SSA of about 270 ft²/ft³. and a void ratio of about 40% the flow rate is too slow.

There is a wide range of media with good flow and high SSA,  but some to stay away from are any rock that will change the pH such as marble or lime stone and GrowStones in apquaponic systems because they are made of glass which will leach into the fish tank and harm your fish.  They would be great in a bioponic system though.

The best products are LECA (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate),  Expanded Shale or Bio-Char if you are able to afford, and obtain them.  For the rest of us Lava Rock is my preference because it is cheap, porous, not too heavy and contain a lot of minerals for the plants. Microporous solids called zeolites form in volcanic rocks.  According to Russel Water Gardens - Lava Rock has an SSA of 86 ft²/ft³ and a bed porosity of 20%

For comparison I found this reference
gravel (40–70 mm,specific surface area of 700 m 2  /  m 3 and bed porosity of 0.4)and a LECA with the commercial name of Filtralite NR(4–8 mm, specific surface area of 1250 m 2  /  m 3 and bedporosity of 0.45).
I converted that to inches and feet.
1.5-2.5 inch gravel has an SSA of 213 ft²/ft³ and bed porosity of 40%
1/8–3/8 inch LECA has an SSA of 318 ft²/ft³ and bed porosity of 45%).

Some of these figures do not seem to jive...  It may be that the 2' gravel was not ordinary drain rock.

Nate Storie showing specifications for Sand, Pea Gravel, 3/4" Rock, 1" River Rock and his Zip Tower Media

http://youtu.be/EKGiXoJMLbo

Radial Filters are inexpensive to build, extremely efficient, and offer the side benefit of capturing fry before they are eaten. To grow healthy plants we must keep the roots clean, and the radial filter will do a better job. There are many versions of radial filters on the internet, but the principal is pretty basic, and easy to understand. A radial filter will remove most of the detritus by slowing the water down, and allowing it to settle to the bottom of the radial filter, thus keeping your DWC raft beds, and media beds as clean as they need to be.

Basic radial filter

There have been quite a few other types of filters tested, but any attempt to use filter pads will create a lot of extra work, and jeopardize the clear flow of water if you forget to clean it. Depending on the size of your filter you will be married to that chore more often than you like.

I only do this when my fish have babies, but occasionally I will place a filter inside my radial filter on the exit pipe in order to save the fry that get sucked in. I can then move them to a safe tank until they grow a bit larger.

Cycling
One of the biggest blunders newbies make is to buy fish before the system is cycled.  Cycling involves growing bacterial (nitrification) which will naturally find their way into a aquaponic system.  There is no need to buy this bacteria, and every product I have ever used did absolutely nothing.  This includes products claiming to have several bacteria strains, and those claiming to have special enzymes.  Nitrification takes a minimum of three weeks, and as your system ages this process will mature and get even better.
There is only one way to speed the process.  You can obtain a fresh bucket of media from an established system and add it to yours.  Water from an established system will not work.  To feed and grow the nitrifying  bacteria simply add enough urine to maintain the ammonia at about 0.5 - 1.00 ppm more or less, and let the water flow through the media and it will begin to grow.
There is possibly one other way to quickly establish nitrification, but I have never tried this.

Nitrifying bacteria live on surfaces therefore a high  BSA is good.  Nitrification is a process where bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and other bacteria convert nitrite to nitrate.  This is a two-step oxidation process of ammonium (NH₄⁺ or ammonia NH₃) to nitrite (NO₂^-) then to nitrate (NO₃^-) .  During the cycling process do not adjust your pH unless it falls below pH 7.  The bacteria prefer a higher pH.  The pH can be adjusted later when the bacteria have become established.  It is this nitrification process that removes the ammonia and nitrites from the water and creates a clean healthy environment for your fish.  Without it you will be doing several water changes per day of burying dead fish.

Nitrogen is a key component of aquaponics.  We add protein in the form of fish food and that breaks down into nitrogen for our plants.  For most of us this is all we need to know, but if you wish to crunch numbers and maximize the use of nitrogen then I suggest Commercial System Design – Nitrogen Budget. Paul Van der Wolf explains the entire cycle in depth. 


The System Build

Your first system will probably be done as inexpensively as possible, and you may be temped to try some of your own ideas. I can tell you from experience that your tanks need to be sturdy, thin enough to accept a Uniseal or bulkhead, and of a material that will not rot from constant exposure to water which I guarantee you will spill plenty.

Concrete may seem like a good choice, but only if it is sealed. The problem with concrete is that it will affect the pH and if you continually force the pH down to an acceptable level the concrete will also weaken and crumble. There are ways to seal it with pool paint or wax, but it's is probably better the just avoid it.

Wood Tanks will rot if water accidentally gets under the liner. I have successfully [built wood tanks using fiberglass], but in the end this was more expensive than a good solid agriculture stock tank which can generally be picked up for about $1/gallon.

.  

These bunk feeders make good DWC Raft beds and the stock tanks are perfect for fish tanks

The advantage to building your own tanks is you get to make them exactly the size and shape you wish.

International Bulk Containers (IBC) and plastic drums also make very good tanks, and the size is appropriate to most backyard systems. But I like a fish tank that I can reach my hand to the bottom of so you may want to cut your container down just a little.

Drums are often free, so it is an ideal way to start. Some people like them well enough to stay with them. I like the way Justin has built his grow bed using 1/2 drums because there is no frame below the drums, but I would have added a support leg in the center or used 2x12. By the way a barrel has a removable lid a drum has two bungs.

Bell Siphons work while the flow remains within the parameters they were designed for, and as soon as something changes they will fail. As much as I enjoy listening to a bell siphon cycle through it's phases; and even though I'm the guy who came up with the idea to use a small reservoir at the end of a breather tube, I will never use another bell siphon on any system I build. The reservoir helps, but it's a Band-aid fix. Why bother with a bell siphon when there are better solutions.

Timed Fill and Drain are a better choice and they conserve energy. Running a 100W pump 24/7 uses 2.4KW per day 365 days a year. A 15 minutes on 4 hours off cycle consumes 16 times less power than a continuous run bell siphon system! I do not believe turning a pump on and off shortens the life of a pump, but everyone can have an opinion.

Media beds traditionally use a Bell Siphon, but a Timed Fill and Drain system will use less energy and run with far fewer problems.

Timed Fill and Drain systems use a small weep hole which allows the media beds to drain more slowly than they are filled. A stand pipe allows any excess water to overflow back into the sump tank until a timer turns the pump off. The beds are filled several times a day, and when the pump shuts off, the water weeps out and drains the media bed.

Old School Fill & Drain

I don't know if this siphon valve has a name or how well it works, but I first saw it in Travis Hughey's Barrel-Ponic Manual. It works by pulling a toilet flapper with the weight of a 2 litter bottle. Just giving you all the options.

Air Pumps
I'm running my air pump to 9 air stones and moving over 1000 gpm with 2 airlifts. I'm using all the air (200 lpm) my Eco Plus 7 compressor can deliver. It runs at 93W wide open and 51W when closed.
The specs say an Eco Plus 7 compressor is rated at 200 lpm 5.1 psi and 280W. I believe the 280W rating refers to the maximum heat dissipation the motor coils can endure. I've rebuilt Active Aqua air pumps and I've looked inside this Eco Plus 7 and found the Active Aqua to have less space within the enclosure. After I could no longer rebuild my Active Aqua I bought the Eco Plus. My feeling is that Eco Plus has created a larger cooling area that allows the pump to operate much cooler and last longer. I could not pick my Active Aqua 70 lpm up with bare hands whereas the Eco Plus 200 lpm is only warm.

 

I've done a similar test with my Ametek Rotron EG DR083 regenerative blower and found that restricting the outflow increases the Wattage, contrary to the compressor. The regenerative blower is great for air stones where the depth is usually pretty shallow. It delivers 521 liters per minute and uses just 118W, but the compressor's advantage is the ability to deliver 5.1 psi. The regenerative blower has only 0.867 psi. So the regenerative blower does not work well for airlift pumps but it blows a hell of a lot of air to air stones!

Airlift Pumps 

Air stones are highly recommended throughout any system and since we are running an air pump why not utilize it for pumping water too? That's right airlift pumps will move large quantities of water on less power, and aerate the water while doing so.

One of the really nice things about airlift pumps is the way they can pass solids without clogging. They are in my opinion far more reliable than centrifugal pumps, and a whole lot less expensive. My airlift can be built for less then $10 and it delivers over 1000gph.

Electric Pumps - If you purchase an electric pump there are some considerations. To keep this paper short (lol) I'll insert a [Link Here]

CHOP 1 vs CHOP 2
CHOP (Constant Height One Pump) Traditional Aquaponics uses either a CHOP 1 or a CHOP 2 design. The water level in the fish tank is always a constant height and one pump delivers water to the fish tank which overflows into the media beds and then back to the sump tank. Chop 2 differs by one pump delivering water to both the fish tank and the media beds. These each return water back to the sump tank. The advantage of CHOP 1 is greater flow through the fish tank. The advantage of CHOP 2 is the ability to isolate the media beds and the fish tank. These traditional systems aerate the water by drawing air down through the media each time the water level fills and drains.

Level Systems
There seems to be some misconception that fill and drain action is required for good aeration.  This is simply not true.  There are several methods to aerate water.   

Air stones, with an air pump are generally used in any type of aquaponic system  I highly recommend many air stones throughout the system, and air lift pumps definitely ensure good aeration.

Level systems do not waste energy lifting water from a sump tank.  Instead the water is simply pushed along through the system, remaining the same height from one section to the next.  The air lift pump, and air stones provide all the aeration necessary for good healthy roots.

This of course does leave the roots sitting in water in the media beds, but so do raft systems.  There may be a few plants that don't appreciate constantly wet roots, but most do fine.   Media beds have been included in every successful aquaponics system since day one,  but a new concept has evolved which integrates wicking beds with aquaponics.  It's called Earthan Beds, and I'll tell you more about that later.

Flow Rate - Kieth Tatjana recommends twice per hour, but no more. The Aquaponic Gardening Community site recommends once per hour. So if you have a 100 gallon fish tank you should pump 100 to 200 gallons per hour. These rules of thumb are good enough, but if you are designing a commercial system then I would refer you to "Why Flow Rates are Critical in Aquaculture" written by Paul Van der Werf.


Fish are such a wide topic. My advice is grow what you like to eat, or grow what you like to look at, but don't grow what does not belong in your neck of the woods.
Tilapia in Maine is going to require heating the system, and take it from someone who has been there, it gets expensive. Catfish, are a good all around fish, but even though they can survive, they will stop growing during the cold days of winter. If you live in Florida or Hawaii you might like to grow tilapia, but even in Florida the winter will require some heat.
The nice thing about Tilapia is they grow pretty quick, they are hardy, and they reproduce well, but catfish kept in a warm water tank will also fulfill these qualities. If you live in a very warm climate, go for it. But most of us will be better off with a local fish that is acclimated to our area. Perch, Blue Gil and even trout are being raised in cool climates.

Larger systems are more stable, but start small. A 100 gallon tank with about 16 lbs of fish and 16 sq ft of garden is a very nice system. You can expand the grow bed on that system a little, and stock the fish a little heavier, but for starters it's best to keep a light fish load.

Breeding Fish - I have found that fish will breed without my intervention. But some like to identify the males and females and place one male among several females. Sexing fish is not easy, but Robb Nash has a good method in his link. Once the fry are available it is a good idea to separate them so they will not be eaten.

Compassionate Killing of Fish

Inhumane and totally unacceptable slaughter methods, that can take a long time for
fish to lose consciousness and die, should be prohibited urgently. These include
suffocating fish in air or on ice, bleeding to death without pre-stunning, and the use of
carbon dioxide for stunning.

Only slaughter methods that cause an instant death or render the fish instantly
insensible to pain until dead should be permitted. These include percussive stunning
techniques whereby fish are rendered instantly unconscious when carried out
efficiently.

I use a 1" dowel about 16" long to club my fish. The easiest way I've found is to hold the fish in the net so that they don't slide out of your grasp. Wait a moment until they settle down and make one swift blow to the top of the head. Death is instantaneous. There is no suffering, no blood, it's just a good clean kill.

Fish Food can be a major expense if you don't find a good source. I buy mine at Tractor Supply where I get 50lbs for $18.00. The important thing is to look for about 32% or better protein. For your fry you may wish to buy a more expensive product with higher protein. Some foods will leave a lot of detritus so you may want to experiment. How much and how often you feed your fish depends on temperature. They will not eat as much when cold. Under ideal conditions you might expect to feed your fish about 1.2% of their body weight. I like to watch them feed and if they leave food after a few minutes then I cut back just a little until they don't leave any food. Take note of how much your fish eat to be sure your feed rate is approximately 1.2% of what you guess they weigh. If not you may have a problem with water quality.


Wicking beds have many advantages when growing fruiting plants. Unlike lettuce, and kale which are not particular; tomatoes, peppers, squash, melons, and especially root crops prefer to get their roots down into the media and better yet the complex soil web provided by real dirt. With wicking beds we get back to mother nature, and let her, and all the microorganisms do what they have done since the beginning of time.

Scarecrow's demonstration wicking bed

Aquaponic systems are prone to deficiencies.  Iron being the most deficient mineral of all.  By using wicking beds in an aquaponic system the best of both worlds is found.

Earthan Beds - Paul Van der Werf presented his design several years ago.  I believe it was May of 2011.  His design differed from previous designs when he used 2" drain rock below the soil so that the water would flow unimpeded through the bottom of each bed. The water level remains about 2" below the soil.   He uses large pipes and an air pump to move the water.  Up til then 1/2" to 3/4" media was always preferred due to the larger surface area.  Paul determined that all he has to do is increase the volume of the media beneath the grow beds to compensate for the loss of surface area.  Now that's a win/win idea!

The Earthan Beds use large smooth rock in order to facilitate flow, but the surfaces of the drain rock provide very little BSA. (probably in the order of about 18 ft²/ft³).  With the rule of 1 pound of fish per 25 ft² of BSA we would need to increase the grow beds to quite a large area.  For example just 100 lbs of fish would require 1800 ft³ of BSA or about 11 cubic yards of drain rock.  That's a lot of drain rock, so a standard media bed with something like lava rock should also be added to increase the BSA.  But if you have the room to add additional Earthan Beds I would go that route, and grow as much as you can.

Paul Van der Werf said while describing his Earthan Beds, "There is no great need to “cycle” the system as the soil will contain all the nitrifying microbes you can handle and will leach into the gravel substrate where your water flows very quickly" A system might cycle quickly with the help of some good garden dirt. This leads me to believe the BSA is not entirely dependent upon the drain rock even though the water does not flow through the soil.

Wicking Pots is a similar system. It uses pots placed on a shallow shelf or shallow tray where aquaponic water flows similar to Deep Water Culture (DWC) bed. The plants sit no more than about 1" into the water and the water wicks up into the pots. I first employed this system for cuttings. This has the advantage of being able to move the pots around as needed, but this exposes a lot of water surface to light and air. This exposure can allow algae to grow and water to evaporate but in my grow room I have never experienced these problems.

Pots sit in water over fish tank.    Fish can nibble at the Water Cress growing freely on the shelf.

You may wish to incorporate both of these wicking styles as well as DWC rafts and media beds, but just to let you know I like wicking and Earthan beds above all else because very little water is lost through evaporation. They conserve water which is the goal of any conscientious gardener.

DWC Rafts allow you to move plants easily. DWC should used in tandem with Media beds or Earthan in order to guaranty sufficient nitrification. Large commercial system like DWC Rafts because it allows them to rotate crops and squeeze the most production out of their green houses.

Raft systems are often built with rigid foam insulation panels which float in tanks about 12" deep. I personally do not like this material or method, and much prefer to use 3/4" plywood which lays on top of the bed. Net pots are placed inside holes just as they would be in foam panels.

This bed is actually a Kratky Hydroponic bed, but it uses the boards as I've described for DWC Rafts.

The bottom of the net pot is allowed to touch the water's surface.  This provides moisture to the media in the net pot by way of capillary wicking action. It's important to avoid openings because light will grow algae and air will dry the roots. Place the boards tight to each other and keep every hole filled.  The advantage is moist air around the roots, and a cleaner more stable grow bed that does not use environmentally awkward materials. Evaporation is minimal due to the top being closed. The plywood will last for many years, and can be coated with fish safe epoxy for even longer life. Giorgio presented his GM Raft System - an integrated aquaponic design in January 2012 and others have improved the concept. They may have gotten the idea from Kratky, but as far as I know Giorgio was the first to integrate the concept with aquaponics.


NFT (Nutrient Film Technech) uses tubes The roots grow in the nutrient rich flowing through the tubes.  This is generally a way of conserving space by going vertical. The downside is the water gains or looses a lot of temperature.

Vertical Towers allow easy access and greater density, but I see no way to incorporate this into a 'Level System.' Bright Agrotech is the leader in this field. Their Zip Grow Towers are well designed and provide a modular approach that facilitates easy harvesting and transplanting seedling starts. This system will transfer a lot of water temperature to the surrounding air.

Dr. Nate Storey pictured above has many very informative videos about gardening with aquaponics.

Bioponics is aquaponics without fish. There are many advantages.
1. There is no need to purchase fish food.
2. No detritus from food to clog up the system from humonia
3. Bioponics allows changes to the water chemistry without worry of killing fish.
4. You can use pesticides that would harm fish.
5. You can grow within a wider range of temperature.
6. There is no need for a fish tank.
7. Less to worry when you leave for a weekend.

The disadvantage is the system does not produce animal protein.

Generally humonia (aged urine) is used instead of fish. Aging the urine will kill any pathogens, but to be practical urine is not a likely source of pathogens in the first place. If humonia grosses you out then you might be interested in another method. I am testing to see if grass clippings and weeds can be substituted for humonia. My initial tests indicate that grass clipping will provide plenty of nitrogen. David Epstein at Bioponica.com has been doing some interesting experiments using only plants to feed fish in aquaponics. I am hoping to find a way to do the same in Bioponics.  I have found that grass clippings and weeds can cause detritus.

Plants -My advice is to grow plants you like, and costs you the most to buy in the grocery store. The important thing is to grow with the season. The short days of winter will not support tomatoes. Green leafy vegetables do best in Winter. Cilantro might not grow too well in the summer if you live in a really hot climate. Choose what grows well in your area.

Green Houses or Garden Rooms as I like to call them are great, but beware they can get very hot in the Summer and cold in the Winter.  I use mine for early starts.  Keeping the frost off can be quite an expense.
I also built a grow room, separate from the green house.
I attempted to design my grow room by calculating BTU losses and gains, but after all the number crunching was done I finally understood that relating the math to my real world design had become too complicated for me.  I built a highly insulated grow room, and have found the temperature is be acceptable in the summer even though the outside temperatures were 105-111 F for several days.  All I did was open the windows. Inside the temperature reached high 90's but the fish loved it and the plants did not mind.
Winter on the other hand causes me grief when nighttime temperatures drop to 20F.  I ran a 1200W heater several hours a day and kept the water at 72F and the room stays at about 60F, but humidity and my electric bill have caused me stock my tank with catfish.  I don't want to do that again.  Mold became a huge problem.

Outside looking into my grow room.  Evaporative cooler was not necessary

The grow room is inside an uninsulated metal shop, and the walls and ceiling of the room are insulated with R19. The tanks are also insulated with R11. The problem with this grow room is humidity in the winter and not enough glazing. The room measures 10’x10’ with an 8' ceiling. The single pane glass faces south and measures 10 feet long by 40" tall. If I were to do it again I would add some glazing above the grow bed. East and West windows are probably not so important because the angle of the sun is so low.

To fasten fabric or plastic film you can use PVC as shown in [this video]

Geodesic Dome Calculator

Rocket Mass Stoves are used to heat garden houses. They are affordable compared to running a gas heater, but require a little more attention.

Evaporative Coolers are often used in green houses, they do a really good job if you live where the humidity is low, but running a fan to cool the green house is once again wasting energy. Our summers often hover near 100F or above. I've found that all I need to do is open the garden room up and let the air blow through. This also allows bees and other insects to pollinate your plants.

While on the topic of green houses and living with Mother Nature, I have a few more things to say about energy. Growing with lights is not economically feasible. Possibly, if you were to use LEDs, but how does anyone justify the initial cost of that type of system for vegetables. Grow with the seasons. Leafy greens in the winter, tomatoes and peppers in the summer, and forget the high tech crap.

Floors - I promise, you will spill large amounts of water. Any floor under or near an aquaponic system should be able to handle being wet. Wood does not fit that description.

Pipe sizes are important. Once a hole has been bored into a tank it is very difficult to change the size. 2" pipes are minimal. The flow of water is impeded by small pipes, and each turn also adds resistance. It's very important to build your system with adequately sized pipe the first time in order to avoid problems with water flow.

Gunk clogs pipes and makes them run slower over time.  This is one reason for large pipes and why bell siphons fail.

Insulation and building below grade can help maintain water temperatures. You will have to decide if your climate demands this extra effort. My experience shows that it does help but since there ia a lot of surface exposure it merely servers to soften the swings rather than hold a temperature. If you choose to disregard my previous advice and plan to heat the water then I would definitely go to the extra trouble of insulating.

Lights can be used to extend the grow season. I'm not advocating grow lights to grow plants to maturity, but only to add a couple extra hours in late winter to get your starts going early. If you should choose to do this, do not use any type of florescent or CFL lighting. They are far too expensive because they have a short 1/2 life, and the mercury is very toxic if a bulb should break into your system. My favorite is Ceramic Metal Halide. They have the best spectrum and the heat does not go to waste in the cold days of late winter, which puts them on par with expensive LED lights. Ceramic Metal Halide is being discontinued even though the replacement may not be as good. But I bought a few extra and will make them available if the supply runs out.

Heating is a waste of energy, but occasionally using a heater to get through a short cold spell might make sense. Building a heater from a water heater element is quite easy, but I would caution you to use an Incoloy type water heater element (120-1500-ELD. You can purchase them online here at http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html

Heat pads are also a smart way to keep your seedling at the right temperature.  These small pads have a built it thermostat to keep a tray exactly at the right temperature.

Solar is an option I have not used. It might be a good solution for you.

Starting from Seeds is the least expensive way to grow. Buying plants from a nursery can expose your system to unwanted pathogens, disease, and bugs, but this is a rather small risk in my opinion. Commercial nurseries are very careful now days to use sterile media and deliver healthy plants. The advantage to buying your starts is grow bed space and labor. Starting from seed requires using part of you grow beds for plants that will take time to mature. Buying a plant from the nursery allows you to make better use of your space. But if you are like me you will prefer to buy seeds of particular heirloom plants and save the expense. I start my seeds directly in the bed where they will grow as well as in trays. Transplant shock is rarely an issue in aquaponics. I like to place a bit of Azomite and Insect Frase in the media when I plant a seed to give it a good immune systems, and all the nutrients it will need when it grows up.

Keep a Log. Especially for the first year or two you should keep a log of when you plant, and all of your water tests which should be done everyday until your system completely stable and you get to know it so well that you can immediately tell if something is off. Use your nose and eyes and ears. You may have a dead fish, or one of your pipes may be getting clogged. If you become acutely aware you can save yourself a lot of grief by detecting these things early. If you become a professional grower you will want to keep a detailed log to protect your livelihood.

Sea Salt cures a lot of fish problems, and is the least harmful treatment. More fish die from people trying to treat their fish. Salt is not good with catfish and can be hard on some plants like strawberry, so you may have to experiment.

Black Soldier Flies are an optional food, and many choose to build a small bin to raise them. I have not had a great deal of success raising them. It is something I would advise looking into for a very good source of free protein.

Midge Flys are a gift that may find their way into your system. The small red or tan worms hide in the media, and the bottom of the fish tanks and are very good food for your fish. The Midge Fly looks almost the same as a mosquito, but Midge Flys have no stringer. I guess that's what you would call the part mosquitoes stick you with. Anyhow they are easy to confuse, but midge and their larvae are excellent fish food and they cause you no harm.

For more information on live food download [this PDF].

Other foods such as duckweed, and Moringa tree leaves can be grown for both you, and your fish. It's good for your fish to have several sources, and since living plants will not decay you can be sure your fish will have something to eat if you are not feeding them enough. It is nearly impossible to grow enough duckweed in their tank. They will eat it faster than it grows so you will have to grow it elsewhere. I let water cress grow along the edge. It gives them something to nibble on.

Pest Control can be an especially difficult problem with aquaponics because you must avoid killing your fish. This is one the benefits of Wicking Beds and Earthan Beds. Pesticides are not likely to fall into the fish tank or radial filter. Fish tanks can be located away from the grow beds in a shed. Vertical towers are also far less susceptible.
I hope you will be very conscious of what types of pesticides you use. Many will kill bees which are becoming endangered due to bee-poisoning neonicotinoids. Rather than get into a pests control hear I will LINK you to a few posts I made awhile back.

The Yin and Yang of Pest Control

Fungal Diseases

Killing bees and birds

In the beginning I asked what your goals were. My goals may not be your goals and your resources will differ from mine, so our systems will differ. As I see it, Wicking Pots or Earthan Beds offer the best of both aquaponics and soil based gardening. Consistent moist soil, with benefits of a complete soil web and low water use. The integrated raised beds, fish production, and easy to care for gardens will be free of harmful chemicals. The use of airlifts reduces the power demands, and in the long run reduces your food costs. Bioponics is another interesting way to go.

Many are the considerations. You will probably ponder many sites and videos looking for ideas before you settle on one design, but I hope you will consider what I've said. If your system is not working the way you would like, take another look at this document, the [Rules of Thumb] on the Aquaponic Gardening Community site, and Kieth Tatjana's Optimization of Backyard Aquaponic Food Production System for answers.

Bob Campbell

Chico Gardens

Chico Aquaponics 

PS: Along the way I've found many good sites.  Here's a few I recommend in no particular order.
WaterRight Australia
ScareCrow's Garden
Rob Bob
Grow Your Greens
Wood Burning Stoves - Permies 

Some of the experts I like are
RobTorcellini
Vlad Jovanovic
Paul Van der Werf
Jon Parr
TCLynx
Nate Storey
Rob Nash 
PaulHolowko
Converse
Tetsuzan Benny Ron